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Its Wednesday morning and the smell of BBQ'd pork fills the fresh morning air. Luckily enough there is the most fabulous breeze which means that it does not linger for too long. Throughout the night the our tired bodies had been caressed by the gentle melodic sound of Balinese instruments this was until a big crescendo of drums filled the air just before dawn about 3am; when our alarm went off at 7.00am they stopped as I as magically they had begun; and I could have sleep on and on and on.

Having reluctantly pulled my weary head from the pillow, I padded out of bed and onto the balcony.   I was amazed to see that the lane below was clogged with vehicles of all sizes backed up all the way into the village; and that hoards of people  dressed in their traditional costume were heading  down towards the beach, as they glanced up they waved and smiled; and I am sure admired my dressing gown!  Thankfully they had been thoughtful enough to leave a gap large enough for Jimmy to reverse the car out and take Molly to school.

  This annual pilgrimage to the beach had started at about 4.00am this morning; it is something everyone on the island must do on this day; to get down to sea and make an offering to their Gods before the sun sets. It is the prelude to the Hindu festival called Nypei, which is the day of silence, no aircraft can over fly the Island, there is no TV, Satellite or Radio, the airport is closed, no one can leave their property, so there are no cars or motorbikes, all businesses are closed.  Holiday makers are confined to their Hotels and villas and are not allowed to go out at all. As night falls we are not allowed to show any lights. All lights must be extinguished between the hours of 6.00am Saturday morning until 6 am Sunday the following day.  The Hindu's take it a little further..... They can't talk, eat or drink. They can only contemplate their inner self and find calm in their reflecting.

As we make for the road to wave Molly off to school at 8.00am.  Everyone can now be seen streaming back from the beach, and picnicking along the roadside on their offerings; nothing here ever goes to waste. I even save all my raw peelings for Eluh" s pet pig and anything cooked and tastier goes into the Tiger dogs, bones and all.  Once Molly is waved out of sight, Elie and I head off on our morning walk we immediately encounter a large family breakfasting on our front steps.  We were met with wide smile s and the traditional "Pagi "greeting, Balinese for good morning.

Further along the lane I have a brief chat with the local farmers:

The Boss

  and the Old Boy

about what, I have no idea. As we turn back towards the beach we were eagerly greeted by all the Bali Tiger dogs returning from their morning forage along the beach. Interestingly, when I had taken out their breakfast this morning there was not one of them to be seen; they had clearly been far more interested to see what morsels there might be amongst the picnickers along the shore.  So now as I write Ellie is lying at my feet absolutely exhausted after her perambulation.

Made the new maid starts today, to avoid any confusion between the her and the Made that has been with us one whole year this month; she is to be addressed as Eka ; which confusingly means Number one, or first born child.

First thing Friday morning and as Chris crosses the small bridge over our reflecting pond, he steps straight over a long black snake, which quickly rears up his head and darts straight back into the undergrowth.  I am not sure who was more surprised to see each other, the snake or Chris?

Before breakfast we persuade Chris to join Molly Elly and me on a beach walk.  The breeze is so invigorating, as we stride out.  It is not long before we are joined by our three Tiger dogs and three other dogs. They have a wonderful time chasing the little crabs in and out o the sea.  

It's Thursday evening, and we are heading along into Pettitenget to our favourite little Thai restaurant. The sky is pitch, and before we have left the village the heavens open, the storm is directly overhead, the sound is deafening and the lightning and thunderstorm cartoon like. As we head down towards the Seminyak area it is in darkness.  The electricity is obviously out, then our headlights pick out two men working up an electricity pole; I ask you, in an electric storm how safe can that be?

Nypie eve and the three of us and Ellie head off for a walk towards Echo beach. As we near the next bay where they are building sea Sentosa and the whole frontage has collapsed into the sea. We pick our way though the mess of the construction and the fallen debris to Sol restaurant only it's not Sol anymore but a cool bar, which is not open for breakfast. Even the Echo beach bar is closed and the whole front area where they would set out tables and chairs on a Friday and Sunday has completely collapsed into the sea. This coast line got quite a bashing during the week when a tornado whipped along the coast pounding everything in its path and completely destroying the "Cosy beach bar " it even  had ago at pulling our own roof off.

Luckily enough it is not all closed and we enjoy a lovely breakfast at "Sticky fingers". It was a full English; complete with fried bread, fruit juice and a cappuccino, all for 7 bucks a bargain!

We had Ellie, two of the Gracie's and Daisy with us so we decided on a different route home to avoid the mess we had just encountered. This took along the road, and then to avoid the other road home and a variety of territorial dogs, I suggested that we cut back to the beach past the Green Surf Hotel. The Bali dog disgraced themselves by chasing off after the cows and then a cockerel that they had been taken by complete surprise. The owner shouted after them chastising them in Balinese.

The path back the beach was really slippery and muddy. Just as the end was insight Chris took Ellie's lead from me and lengthened it. This was not a good idea; as she seized the opportunity to bolt for the beach.  I looked up to see him look as though he was skiing along the gully after her. He called after her to stop, not a good idea; as she did his flips flops dug in then flopped back and forth until they sprung in half; his glasses ricocheted off of his face and into the sand.

The air was blue as he tossed his broken shoes into the sea. Molly and I just looked at each, other desperately trying to stifle our laughter. She was grinned from ear to ear, and I could not help but just laugh out loud. We did apologise later, but it was a funny sight, you just had to be there. He had had those faithful old crocs for 18 months and they are going to very difficult to replace; as crocs have moved on somewhat since the purchase of those in Ubud. So now he has no shoes!!

That night we finished supper early, and had managed to clear away everything before darkness fell. We did not want to get caught by those Nypie police. As we were turning in for the evening at 7.00 to watch a movie in bed with black out blinds drawn; our Security man knocks to announce that he has run out of food. This was little frustrating as it had all been agreed the week previous that he would bring extra supplies with him as he was staying over. So now I was breaking all the rules, which he was there to enforce so that I could make him dinner. So there I sttood at the stove, illuminated only by the crack of light coming from my kitchen cupboard door. After I handed him his tray, he suggested that we might now put our lights out; I ask you!! 

Although it was cloudy night I was eventually rewarded by a spectacular view of the Milky Way in the early hours of the morning as the clouds broke; surreal. The stars in the sky were quiet amazing it is rare on this earth that you can get away from lights, but for 24 hours everything completely shuts down and there is no noise apart from the birds and the Sea. 

I have included some pictures of the Ogah Ogah's; which are the huge papier-mâché models of all the Demons that will be out tonight.  These evidently fly over the Island looking to do mischief hence the Island closes down after the carnival evening so that it looks uninhabited. They then fly straight over and away; then these giant effigies are burnt at the end of the rowdy evening to the great delight of everyone gathered. 

I love Nypie; if only the rest of the world could stop and enjoy this annual experience.  On reflection I think not; when I was working in the City of London people could not even stop to observe the two minutes silence on Armistice Day. This always falls on the eleventh hour of the eleventh day of the eleventh month to commemorate those that had fought and fallen; so that we may enjoy the freedom we have today.

Although Nypie is officially over and our staff have returned to work; it is still an auspicious date in the Balinese calendar;  and tonight we are to be regaled by a couple wailing' and I mean wailing back and forth on a microphone to each other  at their special ceremony in the nearby temple.

However, my sleepless night is to be rewarded with a day of pampering at the newly opened spa at the "W hotel", which opened its doors only last Tuesday. I had 4 hours of luxuriating in a package called the "Goddess Glow".  I was the first to experience this treatment, and to use the new executive suite. It was truly divine. My day started with a spell in the detoxifying room inhaling pure oxygen? Whilst also managing to enjoy the complimentary healthy snacks.

Then it was onto the steam room, a foot bath, a body scrub of cinnamon and lime, and a shower.  This was followed by a lime body wrap, a soak in a extra large Mojieto bath complete with mint, lime and rosemary, a full 90 minute Balinese massage with coconut butter and then a facial. Wow, I smell good enough to eat and drink, as I chomp my way through a well deserved lunch.

As if this is not enough I am then treated to yet another head massage as part of the salon treatment, heaven, as my hair is washed coiffed and styled. I finally I step out feeling cleansed inside and out, and yes glowing like a Balinese goddess.

Here is to the next Nypie. 

Love Vanessa xxxxxxxxx

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